SOUTHERN UTAH

 
 

SOUTHERN UTAH

GRAND ESCALANTE - Lower Calf Creek Falls hike

ARCHES NATL PARK - Photo by Erin Shaw

ZION WRIGHT FAMILY RANCH - Wright patriarch, Bill leads us on a free-range and epic ride

CATHEDRAL VALLEY - outside of CAPITOL REEF NATL PARK

ZION WRIGHT FAMILY RANCH - Polaris over Zion Canyon - Photo by Erin Shaw

GRAND ESCALANTE - Lower Calf Creek Falls hike

One of many Quaking Aspen groves found in the higher altitude areas of Utah

BRYCE CANYON - Hoodoos on Navajo Loop Trail - Photo by Erin Shaw

BRYCE CANYON - Hoodoos on Navajo Loop Trail - Photo by Erin Shaw

southern utah

ZION . BRYCE CANYON . GRAND ESCALANTE

CAPITOL REEF . ARCHES . MONUMENT VALLEy

honorable mentions . gear . playlist

I’ve been having a difficult time describing just how intensely epic and mystifying Southern Utah is. There is simply nothing else like it I have seen, and frankly, I feel it has been underrepresented as it is clearly one of the most magnificent destinations on the globe. With such a variety of geological wonders within such close proximity to one another, it is a challenge to take in all the beauty in just one trip. Whether you have visited a hundred times or never before, do yourself a favor and plan a camping-road-trip through Utah as soon as possible.

The Anasazi Native Americans called Southern Utah home and their polytheistic beliefs are represented in the four Elemental Gods: Earth, Sun, Sky, and Water. All four of these deities can be seen boldly displaying their mighty powers throughout this land.  The Anasazi, which translates to “ancient outsiders”, are a native society infamous for “disappearing without a trace”. It is hard to not correlate their mysterious existence with their other-worldly, geological surroundings. Truly, visiting Southern Utah is your best opportunity at experiencing life on an alien planet.


THINGS TO KNOW

  • Have yourself a good, off-roading vehicle for this adventure if you want to make it worth-while

  • Best time of year to do this trip would be late Spring or Early-Mid Fall

  • Expect your plans to change, and have the resources to be able to adapt to whatever awesomeness presents itself to you

  • The best spots in So. Utah lack cell service, FYI

  • Higher the altitude you are at = the colder it will get at night

  • Consider purchasing a National Park Annual Pass - America The Beautiful Pass since Utah is jam-packed with so many national parks in one place, at $80, the pass pays for itself with one trip!

  • The Secret Spots below are listed in road trip order. See map below!

 

Find local businesses, view maps and get driving directions in Google Maps.

 

The above road map begins and ends in Los Angeles, CA but of course it can be customized from wherever you are beginning your journey. There were many stops and secrets along the way - some planned and some not. Our journey was done in 10 days with a couple Arizona destinations at the end. This post will only cover Utah details but stay tuned for many Arizona posts to come!

THE SECRET SPOTS

ZION REGION

where to stay

ZION WRIGHT FAMILY RANCH 

$29 a night

Bill Wright, the patriarch cowboy of the 6-generation-run-ranch, said it best while on our guided horseback ride, “Well, you sure ruined the rest of your trip by staying here first.” Our trip was far from ruined, but it was absolutely the most breathtaking campsite we stayed at ,and nothing could quite compare to it.

This1,240 acre ranch is beyond spacious and sits atop a butte just outside of the national park. You actually have to drive through the outskirts of Zion Park to access the ranch, up a few miles of rough dirt road, naturally. While the park campsite (Watchman Campground) is absolutely beautiful and it provides all the necessary facilities, it is where everybody stays, and the Zion Wright Family ranch, alternatively, offers a private and secluded, off-the-grid experience with10-minute park access, quiet nights, and dramatic star views.

  • Stupidly epic views and spaced-out campsites with rock fire pits

  • Porta-pottys dispersed here and there but mostly Leave No Trace toilet situation here. Check out my How To Poop In the Woods post if you are confused by what that means

  • Be sure to do the Sunset Horseback Ride around the property - all experience levels welcomed

  • No tables or potable water

  • Very limited cell service here

  • Reserve a site but then you get to pick your own on arrival - no “check-in” process. Be sure to follow the directions you receive upon your reservation and not just google maps

  • Location is sometimes subject to wind, horse gnats (weather and time-of-year-depending), and SO many stars

 
 

ADVENTURES

Kanarra Creek Canyon Trail

  • 3.5 miles / Moderate / Out-and-back

  • $12 permit + reservation needed. Be sure to make the reservation a good month or so before your trip, at least, because they fill-up fast (limit 150 persons per day)

  • Gorgeous sights, river-slot-canyon-hiking, like The Narrows, but without all the hullabaloo and crowds

  • Canyon/river ladders and Indiana-Jones-style adventurin’

 
 

ZION NATIONAL PARK

  • TUBING THE VIRGIN RIVER

    • $20 Rental Cost

    • Only really possible to do during an excruciatingly brief window of May through July, while water levels are high, but not too high.

    • 2-mile float and about a 2-ish hour ride dependent on river flow

    • Not quite a “lazy” river float as the river is shallow and rocky, requiring one to get in and out of their tube frequently to avoid rocks. Easy to great time on this river trail but this activity is may not recommended for everyone.

    • Close-toed river shoes required

 
 

  • THE NARROWS RIVER HIKE

    • 16 miles total /Moderate / Out-and-back

    • Most of The Narrows is located in Zion National Park, but the first section (if you hike from the top-down) begins on private property just northeast of the park.

    • The Narrows River Hike within Zion National Park is indeed breathtaking and worth the adventure. No one loves river hikes through narrow slot canyons of epic beauty more than I do, truly, just know that this is where eeeeverybody and their kids are gonna be. As I write this (Sept. 2020), a fungal and toxic bacteria is now spreading rampant through The Virgin River that runs throughout Zion and The Narrows, known to be extremely dangerous. Our over-trafficing of such a precious area has literally befouled ‘The Virgin’. Do this hike someday, but just be sure to pick the right day and time, friends.

  • OTHER HIKING

  • THE ZION BIKE TRAIL

    • Renting a bike, or bringing your own, and riding it through the park is a really fun and beautiful way to see this magnificent park and to access the many spots that limited parking and overcrowding can make difficult.

    • Riding along the bike trail also allows you to waive the park entrance fee and stop and the many swimming holes along the trail

 
 

  • DRIVE THROUGH ZION

    • BE SURE to drive through the whole park at some point, ideally on your way to Bryce Canyon. One of the most beautiful drives ever. Be sure to also play some epic music while you do. The playlist below would work…

BRYCE CANYON REGION

where to stay

NORTH CAMPGROUND

  • $20 - $30 a night

  • Within Bryce Canyon National Park at an elevation of 8,000 ft (it’s colder up here)

  • Try to reserve a spot along the rim of the campsite, close to the hoodoos!

  • This site has some shade, access to clean restrooms, water, tables, and firepits, and more stars than you could ever imagine. Pets allowed too!

SUNSET CAMPGROUND

  • $20 - $100 a night

  • Also within Bryce Canyon National Park at an elevation of 8,000 ft

  • This beautiful campsite is mere steps away from some of the best Bryce Canyon hikes and hoodoos for epic sunset and sunrise watching .You can not only camp along the rim, you can enjoy a little privacy, too, with a loop layout and lots of vegetation separating the sites.

  • Restrooms, showers, tables, potable water, and dogs welcomed!

  • Sites are for RV’s, tents and walk-in’s, so you can expect a full house in the peak season

PANGUITCH LAKE NORTH CAMPGROUND

  • $11 - $61 a night

  • Located outside of the park at 8,400 feet elevation

  • Panguitch Lake offers great fishing for rainbow, brook, cutthroat and brown trout. You can canoe and kayak here too! Mountain biking and hiking trails nearby.

  • Restrooms, showers, tables, potable water, and dogs welcomed!

adventures

DIXIE NATIONAL FOREST

  • THUNDER MOUNTAIN LOOP TRAIL

    • 15.6 miles / Moderate / Loop Trail

    • When you enter the Dixie National Forest, right before you get to Bryce Canyon Natl Park, you suddenly enter some real-life Thunder Mountain majesty

    • Great for hiking, mountain biking, and horseback riding

  • PINK LEDGES TRAIL

    • 0.7 mile / Easy / Loop trail

    • Hoodoos and views for days

  • DRIVE RED CANYON TO ESCALANTE

    • Do it

  • RED CANYON BIKE PATH

    • Spectacularly beautiful 24.1 mile, out-and-back trail located near Panguitch, Utah that offers amazing views and is good for all skill levels.

    • Bike rentals available at Outta Here eBikes or bring your own

    • Heading West from Bryce Canyon area is mostly downhill so either plan for a long uphill slog on the way back or have a ride back to the start

 
 

bryce canyon

 
 

grand ESCALANTE REGION

WHERE TO STAY

ESCALANTE OUTFITTERS

  • This place is more of a glamping experience but mid-way through your camping road trip this will be a welcomed break from roughing it, trust me. It has all the amenities you would want and then some.

  • Adorable and simple log cabins with a porch. They come with either a queen-sized bed, 2 twins, or bunk beds.

  • Pets allowed with at $10 fee

  • They have a coin-operated laundry facility (bring quarters!) as well as free, hot showers and clean bathrooms = heaven!

  • Also features a wonderful general store and staff with some of the best pizza I have ever had as well as an exquisite beer selection. Do not miss this spot!

BRYCE VIEW CAMPGROUND

  • $25 a night and a camping alternative to Escalante Outfitters above

  • Within the epic Kodachrome State Park

  • Vault toilet, no hookups, max 4 people, 1 vehicle per site

 
 

adventures

LOWER CALF CREEK FALLS HIKE

  • 6.7 miles / Moderate / Out-and-back

  • Perhaps the best hike I have ever been on. It is the perfect way to spend a day no matter the time of year

  • Features stunning views and a variety of geologic wonders, petroglyphs, tropical-grade, fine, black and red sand, and one of the most stunning (and freezing) waterfalls I have ever seen

UPPER CALF CREEK FALLS

  • 2.1 miles / Moderate / Out-and-back

  • This is the more secret and ‘locals’ waterfall hike that cuts out a lot of the tourist traffic

  • Shorter hike over slickrock with cairns to show the way

singing canyon trail

  • 0.3 mile / Easy / Out-and-back trail

  • As a professional singer, there is nothing more satisfying than sining in a place with perfect acoustic balance. Within this beautiful, large slot canyon you can find a reverberating paradise for all your vocalizations

  • Features an 80 ft. tall canyon splashed with red, purple, and pink colorations. It is also heavily shaded so it is a nice respite in Summer temperatures.

KODACHROME STATE PARK

  • This magical place features a geological rainbow of color and wonderment. These multi-hued sandstone layers reveal 180 million years of natural art and are dominated by 67 monolithic stone spires called sedimentary pipes. The color and beauty found here prompted a 1948 National Geographic Society expedition to name the area Kodachrome after the popular color film.

SLOT CANYONS

  • PEEKABOO & SPOOKY SLOT CANYON

    • BE ADVISED / To reach the trailhead it takes driving down a 40 MILE DIRT ROAD which is a LONG time to be on a dirt road so be ready and have a proper vehicle

    • Once you make it it, is a spectacular and challenging 6.3 mile loop hike

    • EXPOSED and steep (at parts) trail to get to the actual slot canyons

    • Bring more water than you expect to need and a hat as well

    • Spooky Gulch is indeed spooky and NOT for the claustrophobic person - at most times canyon is max 10in wide! My big ‘ol butt barely fit, y’all

    • Insanely beautiful but intense, be aware. There is one part where you have to climb down into a rock hole in the dark and find your way out the other side. It’s awesome but it takes a while to find

    • Make sure you start with Peekaboo Canyon and then go to Spooky - if you do one you have to do both, and you don't want to be the ass going the wrong way in a 10 inch space

    • To enter Peekaboo Slot Canyon you have to free-climb up a 12-ft high rock wall (see GIF below)

    • Seriously a trip highlight, this place, but not an easy one

  • BIGHORN CANYON TRAIL

    • 7.2 miles out-and-back / Moderate

    • Best to hike in March - November

    • The slots cut into the Navajo sandstone rock layers displaying an unusually wide range of colors and forms slots

KIVA KOFFEE HOUSE

  • This one is not really an adventure, but the best place to get some great coffee and a snack with a spectacular view - happens to be on the way to Calf Creek Falls!

 
 

CAPITOL REEF REGION

where to stay

fruita campground

  • $20 a night

  • Part of Capitol Reef National Park

  • Restrooms have running water and flush toilets, but no showers. Potable water available too.

  • Within a gorgeous peach tree orchard within the red rock, spectacular landscape

BLM Land

  • Secret and FREE camping on land protected and maintained by The Bureau of Land Management. Set up camp wherever you feel inclined to!

  • E Hartnet Rd S, Torrey, UT 84775

    • A subtle dirt road can be seen off to the left, approximately 11.8 miles East of the Capitol Reef National Park Visitor Center, Torrey

    • Beautiful, wooded area right next to The Fremont River and just outside of the National Park area.

    • Driving through the park to this campsite is a stunning driving experience

 
 

adventures

HICKMAN BRIDGE TRAIL

  • 1.8 miles / Moderate / Out-and-back trail

  • Fairly popular trail and very scenic

CASSIDY ARCH TRAIL

  • 3.1 miles / Moderate / Out-and-back trail

  • Steep with lots of stairs and lots of views

GRAND WASH TRAIL

  • 4.4 miles / Easy / Out-and-back trail

  • Flat trail through the canyon wash. In non-Summer months it does not offer much shade however

THE GOBLIN’S LAIR

  • 2.4 miles / Easy / Out-and-back trail

  • Along with a super cool name, this stunning trail and area is hidden away on the park’s eastern boundary. The lair is in fact a slot canyon, the entrance of which has been sealed by rock fall. Depending on time of day, light may pour in through ceiling vents more than 100 feet above the chamber floor.

  • The trail begins at the observation point, and follows the Carmel Canyon loop before splitting off after 1/2 mile. Some moderate scrambling up scree slopes and over boulders is required. Caution is advised.

 
 

ARCHES region

where to stay

devil’s garden campground

  • $25 - $250 a night

  • Devils Garden Campground is located deep within the Arches National Park at an elevation of 5200 ft.. The campground is situated amongst the stunning sandstone arches and is only 18 miles north of the park's entrance.

  • Campfires allowed, pets allowed, toilets, tables, and potable water

  • Super popular national park but very spread out and home to iconic Delicate Arch

  • Really epic place but feels too congested after all the off the grid spots

gold bar group sites / blm camping

  • FREE but first-come-first-served

  • Epic spot for groups and right on The Colorado River

  • Sites have fire grates, picnic tables, vault toilets and sites A, B, and C have shade shelters. Site D does not have a shade shelter

 
 

adventures

MILL CREEK TRAIL + SWIMMING

  • 7.5 miles / Moderate / Out-and-back

  • Beautiful waterfall and swimming hole with many a creek crossing on the trail

  • This can be a popular destination especially in the warmer months

delicate arch trail

  • 3 miles / Moderate / Out-and-back

  • Steady incline and 610 ft of elevation climb

  • Without a doubt the most popular trail and destination within Arches National Park. The Delicate Arch is on the Utah license plate and is in no way a Secret Spot, however the trail and destination is just stunning and worth doing nonetheless. Doing this trail in the off-season and/or on a weekday is ideal for the least crowds

  • Be sure to check out some of the other amazing rock formations near the famous arch

corona and bowtie arch trail

  • 2.3 miles / Easy / Out-and-back

  • This is another popular destination, however close-by access to The Colorado River makes it special and full of little nearby nooks and Secret Spots

 
 

MONUMENT VALLEY

where to stay

hilltop hilton

  • $65 - $80 a night (and so worth the “splurge”)

  • Unbelievable glamp-camp hybrid looking out onto the iconic and picturesque Monument Valley

  • Firepit with wood bundles for purchase upon reservation. Table, kitchen access, shower available, dogs welcomed, toilet, but no potable water and no wifi.

  • Fall asleep to the most epic view and starscape you could ever imagine

THE VIEW CAMPGROUND

  • $19.95 - $179.95 a night

  • They have lots of options; tent camping, RV spots, and cabins

  • This place has everything and is operated by the Navajo Nation

    • General store, tables, showers, wifi, potable water, pets allowed, toilets, and trash

 
 

adventures

monument valley scenic drive

  • Off-road/dirt-road-driving through and around the most epic and iconic landmarks in Monument Valley: Three Sisters, The Hub, Totem Pole, The Cube, Artists Point, City Butte, The Thumb, John Ford's Point Overlook

  • Stop a hike around wherever!

  • As of September 2020 this road is currently closed due to COVID-19

HONoRaBLE MENTIONS

DETOUR must do’s

  • PANDO ASPEN TREE COLONY

    • The largest grove of Quaking Aspen trees (my favorite tree) and the largest one-root-system-organism in the whole world!!! Powerful vibes here

  • HOT SPRINGS

    • Fifth Water Hot Springs

      • 4.5 miles / Moderate / Out-and-back

      • Beautiful, multi-pooled mineral hot springs with a waterfall to boot!

    • Mystic Hot Springs

      • 0.2 mile / East / Out-and-back / $25 fee

      • Individual tubs as well as a big pool within the red rocks - very photographable

  • CORAL PINK SAND DUNES TRAIL

    • 0.8 mile / Easy / Loop trail

    • Short excursion worth checking out. In the early morning or golden hour the sand dunes take on a pick hue from years of red rock erosion

  • REFLECTION CANYON TRAIL

    • 18.7 miles / Hard / Out-and-back

    • Epic backpacking adventure (for experienced adventurers) to one of the most epic and visually stunning destinations on the planet

    • Backpacking Reflection Canyon is an intense, challenging hike that takes you through slot canyons, climbing up and down shifty sandstones and traversing rugged terrains and ravines.

    • Offline map is recommended since the trails are not marked well

GEAR reccomondations

KITCHEN GEAR

CAMP GEAR

PERSONAL GEAR

SOUTHERN UTAH PLAYLIST

 

Listen on Spotify: Epic as all hell and heaven: bombastic, etherial, other-worldly and very special.

 
Laura Jackman